Tagarchief: CIBJO

Nieuws van uit en over CIBJO (World Jewellery Confederation)
website http://www.cibjo.org

CIBJO releases simplified guide to responsible practices in diamond, coloured stones, pearl and coral trades

March 12, 2019

CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, has released a simplified guide to ethical and responsible practices in the handling and trading of diamonds, coloured gemstones, pearls and coral, and has made it available for downloading in PDF format from the CIBJO website, in multiple languages, free of charge.

The 10-page to 13-page document, depending on the language in which it is downloaded, provides easy-to-understand guidelines for industry professionals concerning the disclosure and description of natural and treated gem materials, synthetics and other artificial products, as well as recommendations about information that should be requested from suppliers.

The document is intended to support jewellery business owners and professional staff, but it is not intended to replace CIBJO’s Blue Books, which are comprehensive guides of standards, practices and nomenclature for diamonds, coloured gemstones, pearls, coral, precious metals, gemmological laboratories and responsible sourcing, nor in any way supersede national legislation or regulations, or internationally approved protocols.

“The Do’s & Don’ts Guide is intended to serve as a quick and simple reference for industry professionals, to ensure that responsible practices are being applied,” explained Roland Naftule, President of CIBJO’s Sector A, which covers all gem materials and was responsible, along with the help and support of his vice-presidents, for producing the document. “We encourage all members of the industry to become familiar with the various Blue Books, but we appreciate that on the spur of the moment they can be overwhelming in terms of size and complexity. For that reason we produced this more concise and easily-read guide, with the goal being to promote consumer confidence through ethical trade.”

“Consumer confidence is the bedrock of the jewellery business, and to maintain and enhance this it is critical that responsible practices be applied, by all participants at every stage of the chain of distribution,” said CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri. “Our new Do’s & Don’ts Guide is designed to support this objective.”

To download CIBJO’s Do’s & Don’ts Guide from the CIBJO website, PLEASE CLICK HERE.

The guide can currently be downloaded in English, Arabic, Dutch, French, Hebrew, Italian and Portuguese. Additional language versions are currently being prepared and they will be added to the website as soon as they become available.


Harmonisation of standards, terminology and testing methods critical for Chinese trade’s development, CIBJO President tells Hong Kong seminars

ABOVE: CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri addressing the international standardisation seminar in Hong Kong on February 28, 2019.


March 5, 2019

Strict adherence to agreed-to grading standards, nomenclature and methods of testing are prerequisites for the development of the gemstone and jewellery industries in China, which are keen to establish a leading position internationally, and in the Asia-Pacific region in particular, CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri told audiences in Hong Kong last week. Both events took place during the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, organized by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC).

The CIBJO President was a keynote speaker at the two seminars. The first, which was held on February 28, looked at prospects for international standardisation, and was organised by the National Gemstone Testing Centre (NGTC) of China, and the second, held on March 2, looked specifically at Fei Cui testing, and was organised by Gemmological Association of Hong Kong (GAHK), together with the Hong Kong Council for Testing and Certification and the NGTC.

Appearing alongside Dr. Yang Lixin, the Director of NGTC’s Standardisation Department, at the international standardisation seminar on February 28, Dr. Cavalieri noted that an historic revision of the standardisation systems is currently underway in China. “The success that China will have in setting standards, and then ensuring that they are applied, or at the very least accepted in other countries, will to a large degree affect the Chinese jewellery industry’s success in Asia and the Pacific basin,” he said. “The question that I am addressing today is how should these standards and nomenclature be developed and applied?”

There is a readiness among the authorities involved in the reform of the standardisation process in China to defer to standards devised by  non-governmental standard-setting organisations, such as CIBJO in the jewellery and gemstone sectors, the CIBJO President noted. “I would strongly recommend that Chinese organisations like the National Gemstone Testing Centre not only adopt the ‘association standards’ articulated in CIBJO’s Blue Book system, but also play a greater role in helping formulate the Blue Book standards, so as to ensure that they meet the requirements of your domestic market, and also the markets through the Asia-Pacific area,” he stated.

Dr. Cavalieri proposed that NGTC lobby the Sub-Committee on Standards and Conformance (SCSC) of APEC, the Asia Pacific Economic Cooperation Alliance, to develop common standards and nomenclature, based on the CIBJO Blue Books,  in the 21 member countries – not a only for diamonds, but also coloured gemstones, pearls, precious coral and precious metals, and possibly precious materials with which China has a uniquely special relationship, like jade. “CIBJO will be your partner in the venture,” he said.

Dr. Yang Lixin, Director of NGTC’s Standardisation Department, addressing the international standardisation seminar on February 28.

Kent Wong, Managing Director of the Chow Tai Fook jewellery group and Chairman of the Jewellery Advisory Committee of the Hong Kong Trade Development Council, addressing the seminar on the internationalisation of the Fei Cui Standard on March 2.


Jade, jadeite, omphacite and kosmochlor, which in China collectively are referred to as Fei Cui, fell under the spotlight at the seminar on March 2, and in particular upon a testing program developed in Hong Kong, which it is hoped will play a key role in the global popularisation of such jewellery outside of its home market.

“Fei Cui is an excellent example of a product and an industry that has not been transported or translated well outside of its primary market, which of course is China,” Dr. Cavalieri noted, pointing out that, in terms of market value, after diamonds, jade products make up the most valuable gem sector in the worldwide jewellery industry.

“While Western companies managed successfully to bring diamonds to China, the same cannot be said about jade producers and traders bringing their products to the West. Indeed, I think I can comfortably state that the international potential of Fei Cui is nowhere close to being realised,” the CIBJO President stated.

CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri (centre) receiving a gift of appreciation from Liang Zhenjie, Deputy Director of NGTC, and Eddie Fan, Chairman of GAHK, during the seminar on the Internationalisation of the Fei Cui Standard on March 2.

To a large degree the popularity that diamonds now enjoy in China can be attributed to the tremendous effort that was employed in creating the infrastructure and partnerships necessary, and also in branding and marketing. But there is another critical element in that success story, Dr. Cavalieri stated. “It  was the fact that when it came to describing the diamond, qualifying the criteria by which it is graded, and listing the types of treatments and enhancements that needed to be disclosed, systems had already been developed that ensured that, even though we all may speak in different languages, we can understand each other when it comes to the product. That lies at the heart of CIBJO’s mission, and it is also why the work being done by the Gemmological Association of Hong Kong and others in the formalization of Fei Cui testing is so important.”

“But doing the research is not enough. To properly internationalise the product, it is essential that the testing and grading standards be internationalised as well,” he stated.

To date most gemmologists outside of China and Hong Kong have preferred to identify the materials covered by “Fei Cui” individually, or sometimes in the case of mixtures, by combining the internationally agreed nomenclature – namely jadeite, omphacite and or kosmochlor. This currently is the approach taken in CIBJO Coloured Stone Blue Book. “The Fei Cui testing standards that have been developed are certainly more appropriate for a major market, such as that which exists in China, and the one that could potentially develop elsewhere in other parts of the world,” Dr. Cavalieri said.

“We are open to discussing changes, especially given the growing dominance of the Chinese markets, and the massive popularity of Fei Cui in this region,” he continued. “But clearly we are dependent on your input. It is possible to align the Fei Cui testing standards with the CIBJO Blue Books, but to do that successfully we require the experience, expertise and wealth of knowledge that has been acquired by the Gemmological Association of Hong Kong and others in this area.”

“The success of Fei Cui of repeating its success in China and South East Asia, in other countries as well, will depend in part upon the companies dealing in these materials showing the same skill and commitment as the diamond industry did in China 20 years earlier,” Dr. Cavelieri said in conclusion. “But it will also depend on our collective ability to transform the Fei Cui testing protocols that you have developed into international standards. We invite you to work together with us in assisting Fei Cui achieve its full potential, not only in China and Asia, but across the globe as well.”


CIBJO release 05-03-2019


Harmonisation of standards, terminology and testing methods critical for Chinese trade’s development, CIBJO President tells Hong Kong seminars

Click PDF icon on left to download document


CIBJO concludes 2018 congress in Bogotá, Colombia, after focusing strongly on responsible sourcing and new technologies

ABOVE: CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri (far right) presenting a gift to Colombian Vice President Marta Lucia Ramirez (second from left). She is flanked by Pramod Kumar Agrawal (far left), Chairman of India’s Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council, and Kenneth Scarratt, President of CIBJO’s Pearl Commission.


October 18, 2018

The 2018 CIBJO Congress concluded yesterday in Bogotá, Colombia, after three days of official business, which followed two days of steering committee meetings. The final day of the congress was marked by a visit by Colombia’s Vice President, Marta Lucia Ramirez.

Addressing the special session of the congress, which also was attended by about 200 members of the Chamber of Commerce of Bogotá’s Jewellery Cluster, Ms. Ramirez outlined challenges facing Colombia in general and the business community specifically. She pointed to the growing importance and expansion of the Colombian jewellery sector, and paid tribute to representatives of the emerald and jewellery industries, who she said were leading the sector forward.

During the concluding General Assembly session on the final day, CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri described the congress as most successful, noting that significant work had been accomplished in driving forward the business and social agendas of the jewellery and gemstone industries, and in particular preparing them for the marketplace of the years ahead.

CIBJO’s senior officers during the General Assembly session on the final day of the 2018 congress (from left): Roland Naftule, Vice President; Marc-Alain Christen, Chief Financial Officer; Gaetano Cavalieri, President; Corrado Facco, Vice President; and Eli Avidar, Vice President.

“As industry leaders, our obligation is to ensure that our sector is able to evolve and adapt in accordance with changing business, technological, social and geopolitical conditions,” said Dr. Cavalieri. “Staying in one place effectively means that you are moving backwards, and that is not acceptable. What we have done in Bogotá over the past few days is to examine what is happening around us, and to discuss and implement strategies that will equip our industry for the future.”

A landmark event took place on the first day of the congress, when CIBJO’s Responsible Souring Guidance was unveiled. It is intended that the document will achieve the status of a CIBJO Blue Book, coming to serve as a reference for responsible sourcing practices developed and applied by industry organisations and commercial bodies worldwide, while taking into account the challenges of the global jewellery supply chains. Like the other Blue Books for diamonds, coloured gemstones, pearls, precious metals, coral and gemmological laboratories, it will be a living document, which can be amended and added to as changing conditions require. For that purpose, a Responsible Sourcing Commission was established, with Philip Olden appointed as its president.

Disruptive technologies were discussed at length during the 2018 CIBJO Congress. Blockchain technology was the focus of a dedicated session, investigating the significance and possible impacts of the new technology in general, and more specifically in terms of its applications in the jewellery and gemstone sectors. These include securely and transparently tracking the movement of merchandise, as it changes hands multiple times during its journey down the chain of distribution, and also the use of digital currencies, which can significantly reduce banking costs and provide financing opportunities for industry members.

Also coming under the spotlight was the use of the social media as a means of marketing products and services in the jewellery industry. In an enlightening presentation during the meeting of CIBJO’s Pearl Commission, Kevin Cannon, head of digital marketing at the Cultured Pearl Association of America, showed how a single paid-for posting on Facebook was seen by 1.7 million people, and generated 50,000 clicks, 3,000 shares and more than 800 comments.

Environmental sustainability, particular in the marine ecosystem, received a great deal of attention. CIBJO’s Coral Commission, headed by Vincenzo Liverino, reported on its work in promoting research into the repopulation of coral reefs, which today are being severely damaged by climate warming and ocean acidification. While precious corals, which are deep-water species, are not under the same degree of threat as the shallow water coral reefs, the commission hopes that the profile of precious coral as a luxury item will raise public awareness about the plight of those species that are in danger of extinction.

Among the other subjects receiving close attention was adoption by the jewellery industry of the OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains of Minerals from Conflict-Affected and High-Risk Areas, which were presented and explained by Tyler Gillard, who heads the Responsible Mineral Supply Chain project at the Organisation for Economic Cooperation and Development in Paris.

Also discussed at length were the recently revised guides of the U.S. Federal Trade Commission for diamonds, precious metals, coloured gemstones and pearls; means of separating professional opinions from measurable facts on gem grading reports; and simplified versions of the CIBJO Blue Books and other guidelines for members of the jewellery retail trade.

The venue of the the next CIBJO Congress was also announced. It will be the Kingdom of Bahrain, and will be hosted by the Bahrain Institute for Pearls &Gemstones DANAT in November 2019.

The 2018 CIBJO Congress was hosted at the Grand Hyatt Bogotá by Fedesmeraldas, the National Federation of Emeralds of Colombia, and CDTEC, Colombia’s leading gemmological institute.


To view reports of all the 2018 CIBJO Congress sessions, PLEASE CLICK HERE.


To view all the photo galleries of the 2018 CIBJO Congress, PLEASE CLICK HERE.


More information is available on the dedicated CIBJO Congress website at: http://www.cibjo.org/congress2018/


2018 CIBJO Congress opens in Bogotá, Colombia, with strong focus on responsible sourcing in jewellery sector

ABOVE:  Dr. Gaetano Cavalieri (left), CIBJO President, and Tyler Gillard, head of the OECD Responsible Mineral Supply Chain project, addressing the Opening Session of the 2018 CIBJO Congress in Bogotá, Colombia, on October 15.

October 16, 2018

The 2018 CIBJO Congress opened yesterday in the Colombian capital of Bogotá, with a strong focus on responsible sourcing in the jewellery industry. This included the introduction of a Responsible Sourcing Guidance document, which will serve as a reference for responsible sourcing practices developed and applied by industry organisations and commercial bodies worldwide, and will come to have the status of a CIBJO Book. To oversee the process, a Responsible Sourcing Commission was established.

“At the end of last year, we decided to investigate whether the methods by which we have compiled our standards for diamonds, coloured stones, pearls, precious metals, coral and gemmological laboratories could be applied to the subject of responsible sourcing,” explained Dr. Cavalieri. “We asked ourselves, would it be possible to create a responsible sourcing protocol that could be universally accepted, which would meet the ethical standards that our industry expects from itself, and at the same time be acceptable from the perspective of the international community?”

Dr. Cavalieri explained that an operating principle of the Responsible Sourcing Guidance document was that it would be inclusive, meaning that there is an expectation that the standards, guidelines and systems that it describes can reasonably be applied by all members of the industry, irrespective of size or financial capacity.

“Like the other CIBJO Blue Books, the standards and guidelines contained in the Responsible Sourcing Guidance document are recommendations, as opposed to conditions of membership. However, they should come to serve as benchmarks for responsible sourcing systems developed and applied by industry organisations and commercial bodies worldwide, and for governments that may seek to create viable regulatory systems. Also, like the other Blue Books, the Responsible Sourcing Guidance will be a living document, which will be reviewed on a constant basis, and amended if changing conditions make it necessary,” Dr. Cavalieri stated.

CIBJO’s Responsible Sourcing Guidance is based on the OECD Responsible Supply Chains of Minerals from Conflict-Affected and High-Risk Areas, and supports the Kimberley Process and UN Guiding Principles on Human Rights.

Delivering keynote addresses, both during the Opening Session and during a special Responsible Sourcing Session that was held on the first day of the CIBJO Congress, was Tyler Gillard. He heads the OECD’s team working on due diligence in the mining and metals, financial, textiles, oil and gas and agriculture sectors, and additionally leads the multi-stakeholder negotiations for the OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains of Minerals from Conflict-Affected and High-Risk Areas. CIBJO had consulted with the OECD and other key industry associations in formulating its guidance document.

“CIBJO’s new initiative ensures a level playing field and is a common and consistent common reference among different actors in the supply chain,” Mr. Gillard said. “It also helps smaller players to become familiar with internationally accepted due diligence and responsibility, and we are encouraged by the progress taken by CIBJO to promote due diligence, transparency and integrity of the jewellery industry supply chains.”

Mr. Gillard insisted that the OECD understands the challenges faced by the many smaller and medium-sized bodies in the jewellery industry in instituting its due diligence standards, and especially small-scale and artisanal miners. “We don’t require full traceability from mine to consumer, but that you are exhibiting a strong degree of commitment,” he said.

“I emphasise that due diligence is a process, and that it won’t be completed overnight. But you must show good faith that you are doing it,” he said.

The President of the new Responsible Sourcing Commission is Philip Olden, who has developed responsible sourcing protocols and guidance for leading international companies in the jewellery and gemstone sectors, and who oversaw the creation of CIBJO’s Responsible Sourcing Guidance document. The commission’s two vice presidents will be Tiffany Stevens, President and CEO of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee in the United States, and Erik Jens, an independent financial consultant for the jewellery and gemstone sectors and former head of the diamond and jewellery division at ABN AMRO Bank.

Serving as the official venue for the meeting of the CIBJO Assembly of Delegates, the CIBJO Congress gathers the members of national jewellery and gemstone associations from more than 40 countries and representatives of many of the industry’s most important commercial bodies. During the event, the organisation’s Diamond, Coloured Stones, Pearl, Coral, Precious Metals and Gemmological Blue Books, which are industry’s most widely accepted directories of uniform grading standards and nomenclature, are discussed and updated.

The congress is being hosted by Fedesmeraldas, the National Federation of Emeralds of Colombia, and CDTEC, Colombia’s leading gemmological institute.


CIBJO President calls for the creation of government-monitored chokepoints, to verify integrity of coloured gemstones entering chain of distribution

ABOVE:  Dr. Gaetano Cavalieri, CIBJO President, addressing the World Emerald Symposium in Bogotá on October 12.

October 12, 2018

CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri has called for the creation of government monitored chokepoints for the coloured gemstone sector, at which it will be possible to verify the integrity of merchandise accessing the chain of distribution, similar to national Kimberley Process Authorities that verify the identity of rough diamonds entering the global pipeline. He was speaking at the opening of the World Emerald Symposium, which started in Bogotá today, and will precede the start of 2018 CIBJO Congress on October 15.

While regulators to date have focused their attention on diamonds and precious metals, the period of grace for coloured gemstones is coming to an end, Dr. Cavalieri said. “We have to meet the challenge. And we need to do to that without threatening the livelihoods of the men and women who have earned their living over the years from the coloured gemstone trade,” he stated.

“Given the wide variety of coloured gemstones and the massive number of small companies involved in their production and distribution, it is unlikely in the foreseeable future that a single regulatory umbrella body will be established for the coloured gemstone sector, like the Kimberley Process. But if the trade and government cooperate, on a country by country basis, it may be possible to establish a multitude of chokepoints, which can verify and certify the integrity of the gemstones in their respective regions of jurisdiction,” Dr. Cavalieri continued.

“The incentive for governments to join with industry in creating such national chokepoints would be to defend and grow the market share of their own gemstone industries,” he stated. “But that is not the only incentive. It is also a system that will help create legal pathways for artisanal miners, enabling them to enter the legitimate chain of distribution. As we know, today much of the material they produce is sold on the black market or smuggled, and therefore produces little to no tax revenue for the state and local governments.”

Dr. Cavalieri revealed that he has spoken with a number of governments, and the ideas that he presented have been quite well received. He added that a general Responsible Sourcing Guidance document will be presented at the upcoming CIBJO Congress, which in time could come to serve as a set of standards for a future network of national offices, verifying the integrity of coloured gemstones mined in their territories.

To download a full copy of Dr. Cavalieri’s address to the World Emerald Symposium, PLEASE CLICK HERE.


CIBJO release 12-10-2018


CIBJO President calls for the creation of government-monitored chokepoints, to verify integrity of coloured gemstones entering chain of distribution

Click PDF icon on left to download document